Salon glossary

What is the difference between balayage and highlights?

Highlights are done in foil, section by section, starting at the root: the result is even and defined. Balayage is painted freehand on loose hair, lighter at the ends and blended upwards, imitating the way sun lightens hair. The difference shows most as it grows out: highlights leave a root line and balayage does not.

Balayage is French for "sweeping", which is exactly the gesture: the mixture goes on with a brush, without wrapping the section, so it lifts more on the surface and less underneath. That is where the soft transition comes from instead of a hard contrast.

Highlights do the opposite on purpose. The foil isolates the section and holds the heat, so it lifts evenly from root to tip and goes several shades lighter. That is what you use for an even blonde, or when a lot of lift is needed.

The practical difference is upkeep. A head of highlights wants a root touch-up every six to eight weeks, because the line where the lightening stops is visible. Balayage holds for three or four months, because the darker root was part of the design from day one.

They are not mutually exclusive: it is very common to combine fine highlights on top, where the light hits, with balayage through the rest. What decides it is how much lift you want and how often you want to come back.

Where this comes from

• Hair coloring — Wikipedia

Also in the glossary

• How often does colour need retouching?

Want to ask about your own hair?

Every head of hair starts from a different place. The best way is to tell us and have a look.